If there is one thing that NEVER goes out of fashion, it has got to be antique jewelry. Luckily, I got the chance to speak with Judith Miller, an author and expert in the antique jewelry realm! Having just released her beautiful coffee table book, Miller’s Antiques & Collectibles: The Definitive Antique Price Guide, I thought it was the most opportune time to pick her brain for some juicy info. Judging from her must-read responses, it seems as though I’ve stumbled on a diamond in the rough!

1. First off, can you tell me a little bit about your career so far.

Unlike many of my colleagues on the BBC Antiques Roadshow, I did not grow up with antiques and art. My parents were part of the affectionately called ‘formica’ generation of the 1950’s – not only did they get rid of all my grandparents treasures – but they paid someone to take them away!

My interest grew out of a love of history – which I studied at Edinburgh University. I find that the objects are a tangible link with the past and its people. When I pick up a 1820’s pearlware transfer-printed motto cup – I think of the little child, who would not be able to read, painting in an candle-lit factory and the child in the imposing mansion who would use the cup. When I lecture on Chinese shipwreck cargoes – my examples from my collection remind me of the wonder of Chinese porcelain arriving in the West, when we could only make tin-glazed earthenware and the treacherous voyage…the fact that even if there were 50,000 pieces of porcelain on board they would only be worth about 5% of the cargo with silk and spices – 70% of the value was tea……and so on.

2. What inspired your work on antiques and collectibles?

I published my first Antiques Price Guide in 1979 because it was a book I wanted. It was very difficult then to find out what an item was, where it was made, when it was made and roughly how much it was worth.

I also find the subject so fascinating that I always want others to get as much pleasure out of collecting as I do.

My collection is like a scrap-book of my life – I can walk round my house and remember finding a pair of Wedgwood creamware salts c1770 in Newport Beach, California -or my little English 18thC blue and white punch strainer in Hong Kong – or my glorious piece of 18thC toile which was covering a table where a lady from the village was selling her produce in the Dordogne.

3. Can you tell me about the process of publishing your most recent work, Costume Jewelry?

As Costume Jewelry is one of my passions – the research is a delight. We have a great deal of material on the well established designers but we are constantly researching – writing to family members, old employees and current designers themselves. We also buy any old catalogues that come on the market. We also use Graham Rae as our photographer. He has a real affinity with the jewelry and manages to get that extra sparkle on the page.

4. Have you fallen in love with a specific piece of antique jewelry along your travels?

I was travelling through Texas some years ago and attended the fabulous fair at Round Top, Texas. After that my friend Diane, and I went, to stay with another friend in Galveston and we found a fantastic small store that had some wonderful pieces by Miriam Haskell and Trifari pieces designed by Alfred Philippe. The prices were very reasonable – and so of course I purchased quite a few pieces…….

5. What was your most memorable antique jewelry experience?

It happened last week. We included a double page spread on the designer Larry Vrba in our book and he sent me a specially designed piece as a gift. It is quite beautiful and a lovely thought. I hope to catch up with him when I’m in New York in two weeks time.

6. How do you spot a priceless item? What are the key things to look out for?

There is no substitute for doing your homework. I know when something is really good because I study antiques all the time. I read all the books I can, I go to any exhibition wherever I am, I go to lectures, I go to auctions and retail stores where I can handle the items and I have learnt so much from other specialists and dealers.

Always get your eye in to spot quality. In costume are the stones prong-set or merely glued? Are they facet cut? Are they multi-faceted? Are the color combinations good? With ceramics – how good is the hand-painting? On top quality Meissen porcelain even on a small cup – you can see expressions on the faces of the figures. In furniture – how deep is the carving? How good is the proportion of the piece? In Collectibles – you have to know about rarity. Condition of a piece can be vital. Eg. in Worcester porcelain if the gilding is slightly rubbed you can take at least 50% off the value.

In general you should adopt the CARD principle: C – condition, A – Age, R – Rarity and D – Desirability.

7. What kind of jewelry do you like to wear? Do you have any favorite pieces of your own?

Today I’m wearing my favorite Joseff of Hollywood 1940’s Russian gold Moon God with ruff pin (on P98) , with the star earrings P103 (5), but I have some wonderful Trifari, Stanley Hagler and so on and so on. I bought some beautiful Christian Dior 1950’s earrings last week on eBay for $23. But another favorite is George Jensen silver jewelry particularly from the 1950’s designed by Henning Koppel. I am very excited because another Koppel pin should arrive tomorrow….

8. Do you have any advice for anyone that is interested in becoming an antique jewelry expert like yourself?

Immerse yourself in the subject. Make every outing a chance to learn a bit more. And specialise in something you love – you will find it so much easier to retain information.

9. Do you have plans to write another book?

We are already working on the next Millers Antiques Handbook and Price Guide and the next Millers Collectibles handbook and Price Guide. I am also working on our website. I am still thinking what the next subject will be in the series.

10. What is next for you?

I leave on Sunday to fly to LA, then San Francisco, Seattle, Dallas, Toronto and New York. Then in January I will give a keynote speech on 200 Years of Chair Design at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Jacksonville Florida. In between I will give various lectures here. We start filming the 34th series of the BBC Antique Roadshow in February 2011. I will film probably 12 shows. Our youngest son Tom is Head Boy of his school and so we have a great many events to attend. And our oldest daughter Cara, who got married in the summer, is about to move into her first home – so I think my advice will be needed!! Life is indeed varied and never dull.

Remember Scarlet Moreno? The NYU student from Texas who has her own “revintage” line Penny’s Trip?

(If not, you can read more about her my previous post from April 16th!)

SCREAMING MIMIS!

Anyway, the reason why I am bringing her up is because I remembered her telling me about one of her favorite places to get vintage clothing in New York City. It’s called “Screaming Mimis” and it is on Lafayette Street. Today while I was walking to work, I passed by it. It was early in the morning so it hadn’t open yet, but it looked very cute! If you are searching for great vintage pieces to add to your wardrobe for Spring/Summer 09, I suggest you definitely check it out. Scarlet loves it and she sure knows her vintage!!!!

Plus, it looks like they are having a sale!

Sale sign in the door!!!!

    Bess NYC, a Unique Vintage Store in Soho

It was so beautiful out the other day when I was working at Intermix, so I decided to take a walk around Soho on my lunch break. I ventured east down Prince Street, when I remembered Scarlet Moreno (see previous blog post to learn about her) telling me that I should check out the vintage store on Lafayette St. called Bess NYC. 

With time on my hands, I figured I had to check it out. 

I am so glad I did. This store is unlike any store I have ever been in. Upon taking my first step inside, I was immediately drawn in by the intense, creative atmosphere.

Everything in the store was unique. There were vintage leather jackets with studs, embellished boots, destroyed denim, leather belts, and amazing dresses. Each garment was placed perfectly throughout the store. I was impressed. 

Reconstructed vintage leather jackets and embellished shoes

Loren Mindak, 38, a sales and production associate at Bess explained the concept behind the store and its eclectic mix of vintage pieces with more modern items, as well as reconstructed ones. In the midst of an economic recession, Mindak wished to voice his support for DIY (Do It Yourself) and reconstructed vintage.

“This is a DIY fashion company. We definitely support DIY, whether people shop here or not. We encourage people to make their own clothing. It is so great to go off and do your own thing. Pick something up at a thrift store and strip off the arms, create something totally new.”

What are you waiting for? Go ahead, and unleash your creative juices!

For those who are new to the site, I wanted to reiterate some facts about reconstructed vintage. It has definitely surfaced to the forefront of the fashion industry. There is no doubt about that. It is an innovative craft, which allows individuals to bask in their creativity and celebrate vintage garments, while also facilitating the creation of brand new pieces to flaunt in the fashion world.

Need I say more?

Well, I must. There is an added plus to reconstructed vintage.

IT IS ALSO ECO-FRIENDLY!

I recently chatted with Stephanie Doucette, who along with Annebet Duvall, created Doucette Duvall, an environmentally friendly fashion line based in New York City. 

“Our intention has always been to reduce our carbon footprint, before it was a buzzword, actually. That intention applies in my daily life, so this was simply a natural progression.”

The designers are well aware of the fashion industry’s unfortunate tendency to create waste. With their line, they remain proactive and intent on saving the world from further destruction. In order to do this they “rescue” materials that may have been considered trash, and reuse them to create new garments. Doucette and Duvall also refrain from using extra hang tags and garment bags and only ship their merchandise in recycled boxes. Wow, such dedication! 

“We need to rescue waste in a very wasteful industry. Too many beautiful fabrics and trimmings are scattered across the planet.”

Photos: Courtesy of Meredith Sullivan @ Doucette Duvall

Doucette Duvall is truly amazing. This is not only evident in the clothing they make but in their mission too.

“We wanted to make dresses and coats that inspired a gal to build a wardrobe instead of fill her closet. We have always hoped to inspire the personal interpretation of each garment, leading to a sense of style that is fresh and exclusive to each person who wears them.”

Learn More at their Website Doucette Duvall

  

Orange Hits the Runways for Spring/Summer 09

Photo: Flickr

Orange was one of the hottest colors on the runway for Spring/Summer 09, there is no doubting that! While most of us tend to think that orange can be a hard color to wear, this year, fashion designers worked hard to reflect the “wearable” nature of orange, as either a pop of color or the all-encompassing hue of a complete outfit!

While I strongly encourage everyone to add a little bit of orange to their wardrobe for the next coming months, it is important to follow a few guidelines….

1. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE RIGHT SHADE OF ORANGE=Pick the one that best goes with your skin color!

2. To stay on the safe side, pair orange with similar tones, such as khakis, brown, and white

3. For those who are willing to take a risk, pair orange with FUCHSIA or even GREEN, as seen on the high-fashion runways this year

Alexander Wang Paired ORANGE with Fuchsia for Spring/Summer 09

Photo: Flickr

4. If you are not comfortable wearing a full-on orange get up, use it as a POP of color in an accessory like a handbag, shoe, or even jewelry…

5. Lastly, for those who would rather steer clear of solid orange, try taking on a print or floral pattern with orange as the base. Garments like this are sure to evoke a spring/summer aura of happiness!

Add Orange to your wardrobe by checking out the latest arrivals at Intermix, like this cute printed tank! 

Adrianne Indian Jewels Tank – New Arrivals – Tops – IntermixOnline.com

With all of this talk about “reconstructing vintage,” I have neglected to answer a seriously important question.

As I am sure you are all wondering, where and when did “reconstructing vintage” originate?

Luckily, I stumbled across an article in the archives of New York Magazine, from which I learned quite valuable information…

“Named for a fifteenth century spiritual text (and also a Pyschedelic Furs song), the downtown label from actress-designer Tara Subkroff [Imitation of Christ] had its day in the sun from 2000 to 2007. Now defunct, IOC experienced several reincarnations. For its first year, Subkroff and her pall Matt Damhave reproduced vintage pieces, showing them at an East Village funeral parlor.”

So, it all seems to have started 9 years ago. This is actually quite close to the time that Scarlet Moreno and Bridgett Artise began their work! Thanks New York Magazine!

“Imitation of Christ” from Fall 2007 Fashion Week

Photo: Courtesy of David McIntyre for New York Fashion Week

 

 

 

 Photo: Courtesy of Rabeika Messina

I got the chance to talk with Rabeika Messina, a 25-year-old NYU grad student, regarding “reconstructing vintage”. She offered some great insight on her experience with the trend.

Q1: What comes to mind when you hear the term “reconstructed vintage?”

“Either giving the elements (fabric, button, clips) of a vintage piece a new purpose, or mixing parts of a vintage piece with a new one.”

Q2: How did you first hear about this?

“The funny thing is I heard about it after I had already been doing it for a couple of years. I started when I was 16, and now I’m 25. I started doing it because I lived in Santo Domingo (Dominican Republic), and the options for cute/cool clothes were limited. I used to take my aunt’s shoes (from the 80s) and either paint them or add clips/buttons on them. Then I would buy dresses, skirts, or tops from my local flea market and either create accessories for them, like clip-on flowers, or play mix-and-match.”

Q3: What is something that most people do not know about this concept?

“That an old dress can learn new tricks. Everything in fashion is proscripted; we as end users can get a bit creative with it and breathe our own vision into what we wear.”

Q4: Where are your favorite places to shop for vintage?

“The Brooklyn Flea. My favorite vendors there are Jellyroll Vintage, Used and Abused, and this new girl called Joe.”

Thanks Rabeika, you are truly inspiring!

With something as fascinating as “reconstructing vintage,” I am actually not surprised to find that the trend goes far beyond the United States. In Australia and Canada, the fashion-savvy are lucky enough to have “Preloved,” a one-of-a-kind clothing line founded in 2007 by Julia Grieve and creative director Peter Friesen.

They first opened in Sydney, Australia, but now they have expanded to the whole-sale market, with stores in Japan, North America, and Europe, carrying the merchandise. 

Montreal’s “Preloved” Store

Photo: Flickr

“Our passion is design and our philosophy is sustainability. Attention to fit, comfort and style has been our driving force.”

Similar to Deborah Lindquist and Scarlet Moreno, “Preloved” garments are made from vintage materials which are “reincarnated” and given a new life.  When Filly.ca, the chick website, covered “Preloved,” they explained that “the boutique design studio picks and patches vintage pieces into one-of-a-kind items that ooze Preloved’s signature style.” 

Find out more about Preloved by reading the rest of the article on Filly.ca Fashion Designer: Preloved – Filly.ca

Runway Looks from Preloved

Photo: Flickr

I was so excited to see that “reconstructed vintage” has been as successful a craft across borders as it has here in the USA. Although there is not store here in America just yet, Preloved garments may be purchased online. Check it out here preloved

In a previous post from April 16th (Seventeen’s Take on Reconstructed Vintage), I mentioned that Accessories Editor at Seventeen Magazine, Tina Langley, stressed the relevance of “reconstructed vintage” in an time of economic crisis.  

“We are in a recession and not everyone can afford to go out and buy a new coat every season. With reconstructed vintage, maybe instead you go out and buy a vintage coat and put new buttons on it or change the lining.”

In fact, even she plans to engage in this DIY (do-it-yourself) craft. This summer she intends to make a project out of a baby pink sport coat with white fox fur detail on the collar, which she found in her aunt’s closet circa mid 60s to early 70s. While the fabric is starting to deteriorate, she insists that the fur is still gorgeous and that if she could just find a new, pale, grey jacket, she would sew the fur onto it, possibly enlisting the help of a tailor. Hehe

Go Tina!!!

Tina's awesome vintage coat in need of some "RECONSTRUCTING"

Photo: Amazon.com

After class today I walked over to EDGEnyNoHo, “a unique venture developed to promote designs and concepts by fresh, cutting edge talent” (Edgeny.com). Luckily, I got the chance to meet Bridgett Artise, the author of “Born Again Vintage: 25 Ways to Deconstruct, Reinvent, and Recycle Your Wardrobe.” In talking with the designer, a Fashion Institute of Technology graduate, who started her own line called B. Artise Originals in 2000, I learned even more about “reconstructing vintage.”

Artise actually started reconstructing vintage garments in 2001. 

“It was a complete accident. I had been involved in a talent show in New Jersey and I had some free time on my hands. I went to a thrift shop and I chopped up the pieces to use for a fashion show. Year after year, people would come to the talent show strictly to see the fashion. That is when I thought to myself, ‘maybe I should pursue this!’”

The genesis of her book also came about on a whim. While working at Edge, a publicist from Random-House approached Artise’s booth and fell in love with her garments. She was eager for Bridgett to create a book and thankfully she did. I got the chance to look through the book and it is really great. The crafts are divided by level (beginner, intermediate, etc.) and Artise explains how to go about reconstructing garments such as vintage jumpers, arm warmers, winter vests, and dresses.

Pages From "Born-Again Vintage"

 Artise has been reconstructing vintage for 8 years. She insists that there is really no method behind the craft.

“It is an individual thing. I thrive off of prints and texture. I love collars and color, so I always keep those elements and cut away everything else.”

The work is done both by hand and with sewing machines. Each piece is one of a kind. 

“9 times out of 10, I can’t find the same thing twice. Even if I wanted to redo it, I can’t.”

Dresses from B Artise Originals

I was truly inspired by Artise’s work. With each additional piece she showed me, I was more impressed. Her knack for choosing two completely different pieces and pairing them together seamlessly was incredible. Ultimately, she hopes that those who wear are clothing celebrate their sense of individuality.

“Dare to be original. We are in a society where trends become hot and everyone is walking around wearing the same thing. I encourage people to be different. Get something that someone else will never have and walk around in that conversation piece. I dare you.”

Bridgett Artise Inside her Booth at EdgeNY

To learn more about B Artise Originals, be sure to check out Bridgett’s website! B-Artise.com | B. Artise Original Clothing Designs